4-Night San Juan Islands
A Shorter Route Around the San Juans
The San Juans: Epic Island Getaway
The San Juan archipelago sits amidst the Salish Sea between the Olympic Peninsula, Vancouver Island, and the Washington mainland. There are four islands served by the Washington State Ferry (WSF) system: Lopez, Shaw, Orcas, and San Juan, and depending on the tide height, there are between 172 and almost 700 named and unnamed islands. The beauty of the landscape, the clearness of the water, public lands, abundant wildlife, quaint villages, slow pace, inspired craftspeople, and luscious farm stands make this a relaxing and delightful holiday destination.
The key to a successful and stress-free trip is embracing reservations. During the summer months, there are a lot of visitors exploring the islands, and 99% of them use ferries to get there. There are many camping options, but there are also many campers. Reservations ensure you have a place on the ferries and a place to stay. You can travel spontaneously, find guerrilla camps, and have a wonderful time, but you can maximize your options with some advanced planning.
Most groceries and goods must be transported by ferry, which limits what is available and generally increases the price. The savvy islander will shop on the mainland for their staples and take advantage of local farms and co-ops for fresh organic produce. Fuel often runs $1.00 a gallon higher than what you will be used to paying, so tank up before you go. Fortunately, you can easily spend the week island hopping on one tank.
The Washington State Ferries
The most challenging and baffling part of your trip to the San Juan Islands could be wrapping your mind around how the ferry system works. The ferries to the San Juans leave from the Anacortes terminal, a few hour’s drive north of Seattle. There are regular sailings throughout the day. You will need a schedule to plan your trip. It is possible to travel on standby, but understanding and utilizing the reservation system will make your journey much more accessible.
Reservations to the San Juans are available in a three-tiered system. 90% of open spaces for any sailing are held for reservations, with the remaining 10% kept for first come, first serve drive-ups. Beginning two months before the season’s schedule begins, the first 30% of reservations are released for the whole season. You can cancel or modify your reservation up to 5:00 pm the evening before the sailing day. You must be ticketed and through the toll booth at least 30 minutes before your reserved sailing. If you arrive less than 30 minutes before departure, you lose your reservation and will be put on standby. The bottom line is: reserve early and comes early for your sailing, and you will have no trouble getting to the islands. If you don’t have a reservation, you will get on eventually, though it might take a few departures until you do.
You pay The base fare for the vehicle and driver, and it is a round trip, so sailing back towards Anacortes from the islands is already paid for when you purchase your fare. HOT TIP: You can buy a discounted “Wave to Go” fare from Peace Vans. Additional passengers pay a fee, with youth and senior discounts available.
Day 1: Peace Vans to San Juan Island (116 miles, Minimum of 4 to 6 hours)
There are two routes you can take to Anacortes.
Option A: most direct - Drive I-5 north, take exit 226 into Mt. Vernon, and enjoy a stop at the Skagit Valley Food Co-op. This is a great place to stock up on food you might want for your trip. They also have a good selection of merchandise on the second floor and a new locavore’s cafe and deli, The C Square. SR 536 leaves town after crossing over the Skagit River. On a hot summer day, take the first right or left to public beaches and cool off in the river. The Anacortes ferry terminal is 20 miles to the west on SR 20 Spur. Just past the bridge over Swinomish Channel is your last chance to get cheap gas, next to the Swinomish Casino. SR 20 splits before arriving in Anacortes, and you want to follow signs for the ferry terminal on the SR 20 Spur.
Entering Anacortes, drive down Commercial Street, where you will find supermarkets, pharmacies, cafes, restaurants, and many shops. Agave Taqueria makes a monster, delicious burritos. Load up on condiments at the salsa bar, and eat at their outdoor seating. Or grab one to-go, drive out to the ferry landing, and picnic on the beach. Further, favorite local eateries in town include Gere-a-Deli, Rock Fish Grill, and the Brown Lantern Ale House. Slip into Pelican Bay Books & Coffeehouse for a rich cup of coffee. Follow the SR 20 spur to its end at the Anacortes Ferry Terminal.
Option B: more scenic but longer - The more scenic but longer route to Anacortes involves taking a ferry from Mukilteo to Clinton on the south end of Whidbey Island. This ferry route does not offer reservations, but that won’t be a problem. It is a short crossing and allows you to drive the length of Whidbey Island up to Anacortes. There are a few small towns en route that have restaurants and shops. Freeland is mid-island, and Coupeville and Oak Harbor are slightly farther north. Fort Casey is one of the “Triangle of Fire” forts constructed between 1898 and 1917 to guard the entrance to Puget Sound. The park has a campground, a short jaunt off SR 20 next to the Coupeville Ferry landing, and is a great place to spend the night or stretch your legs around the old fort grounds. The view of the Olympic Peninsula across the Strait of Juan de Fuca is spectacular!
Drive SR 20 north and stop at Deception Pass State Park. The Deception Pass Bridge crosses almost 200 feet above roiling currents between rugged cliffs. The State Park has beaches, camping, and picnic areas. To return home with excellent geological knowledge about how the rocks of Deception Pass made it up from Mexico, watch Nick On The Rocks. Beyond Deception Pass, turn left onto Rosario Drive, and in about 5 miles, take another left onto Marine Drive. At the end of Marine Drive, a short jog to the right and an even shorter jog to the left drops you at the Anacortes Ferry landing. Your ferry to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island will take 65 minutes on a direct sailing.
Driving Tip for the San Juan Islands.
Roads change names as they wind through the islands. Beware of this while you are going to your campsite at Lakedale Resort. It’s best to make a reservation at Lakedale before you head out - you can check their accommodations here.
Cell coverage
is generally good, but some significant dead zones are behind various hills. Also, you often pick up Canada on the Westside of San Juan Island, so beware if your plan does not cover international service. Verizon subscribers in the islands have successfully gotten international roaming charges dropped by asserting they haven’t left the country.
San Juan Island
The island is a rustic blend of farms and pastures, wooded mountains, long beaches, protected coves, and one of Washington’s most extensive remnant prairies. There is a National Park, a State Park, and a County Park, all offering a range of landscapes and activities.
Supplies are found in Friday Harbor, where two supermarkets, the San Juan Island Food Co-op, and two bakeries, offer a wide selection. In a small town, you will find almost everything you need. To quench your thirst, there are four great brewpubs and a bar all downtown!
Further afield, there are a few outstanding restaurants and smaller convenience stores. Duck Soup Inn on Roche Harbor is a fabulous hidden gem. San Juan Island Distillery makes excellent locally crafted gins and shrubs. Many farms have little stores or stand, and on Saturdays, there is an outstanding farmers and craft market at the Brickworks in downtown Friday Harbor.
Kayaking
is one of the best ways to experience the marine habitat of the islands. A kayak lets you get close to the shoreline, where fascinating intertidal life clings to the rocks and kelp forests sway in the currents. The waters around the San Juans can be tricky; powerful winds change direction multiple times throughout the day. It is best to tour with knowledgeable guides who will show you the highlights and ensure you steer clear of trouble. Outdoor Odysseys in Friday Harbor has been running tours for over 30 years and consistently has the best guides in the industry.
Camping on San Juan Island
Lakedale is a private campground and resort in the center of the island. It has a lovely lake for swimming and a tiny country store. We recommend staying your first and second nights here. There is so much to explore on San Juan Island!
The San Juans have an abundance of public lands acquired and maintained by the National Park Service, Washington State Parks, San Juan County Parks, the BLM, the San Juan County Land Bank, and The San Juan Preservation Trust. Visit their websites to see what lands are open to the public, and explore some fantastic locations. Avoid going on private lands without permission.
Visit Mount Grant Preserve to get a commanding view of where you are in the Salish Sea! Mount Grant was acquired in 2015 by a partnership between the San Juan County Landbank and the San Juan Preservation Trust. It is a unique and remarkable mountain with trails and a road (open to cars on Sundays) to the summit. From the top, you get a 360-degree view of San Juan Island, Lopez, and Orcas, the Cascades from Mt. Rainier to Mt Baker, and Vancouver and the Gulf Islands. Over 150 old-growth Douglas fir trees and undisturbed rain shadow habitats exist.
Day 2: San Juan Island Circuit
Begin your day by stopping at the peaceful English Camp, the first of two San Juan National Historical Park sections. The park offers miles of superb hiking trails, an interpretation of native habitation, historic military camps, South Beach that Outside Magazine called their favorite on the West Coast, and an expansive native prairie bursting with wildflowers in the spring where foxes hunt for rabbits.
There are two notable walks at English Camp, one following the shoreline from the camp around Bell Point and the other to the summit of 650’ Young Hill, where views of the Gulf Islands, Haro Strait, and the Olympic Mountains take your breath away. The NPS property is adjacent to the Roche Harbor watershed, with many more miles of hiking trails.
You’ll work up an appetite walking around English Camp, so fortunately, Westcott Bay Shellfish Company is just a stone’s throw away. During the summer, a little cafe serves oysters, clams, light fare, and cold beer at outdoor tables beside Westcott Bay. When the tide is low, you can U-pick a dozen oysters to throw on the grill at dinner.
A 5-minute drive takes you to Roche Harbor, the closest thing to another village on San Juan Island. There is a little grocery store, a few restaurants, a historic hotel where Teddy Roosevelt stayed, and old lime kilns. One of the quarries is filled with water and makes for a refreshing swimming hole in warmer weather. In the summer, a daily outdoor craft market bustles with people. Nearby is the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park, which offers you a stroll through 20 acres of artwork around a pond.
If you are into the bizarre and creepy, don’t miss the McMillin Mausoleum. Look for the Afterglow Vista Trail on Afterglow Drive, just past the airport runway. A unique and surreal mausoleum stands in the forest, memorializing McMillin, his family, and his secretary. McMillin was a Mason whose symbolism is interwoven in the structure. If you like feeling the hair on your neck rise, go out at midnight!
Head back to Friday Harbor. If you didn’t slurp a few oysters down, grab lunch or a picnic from Bakery San Juan or Market Chef, and continue to American Camp on the island's south end. Stop at the visitor’s center, where a spotting scope is set for viewing a nearby bald eagle nest, and explore the American half of the Pig War story. Paths from the parking lot lead you to a few gravel coves for a world-class picnic site. South Beach has picnic tables and miles of beach to walk.
Afterward, walk three miles around Mt. Finlayson, or drive to Cattle Point, where an automated lighthouse and old radio building overlook the choppy entrance to San Juan Channel. You’ll hear sea lions raising hell on Goose Island in the channel.
Begin your drive back to the Westside, taking False Bay Rd to where it joins Bailer Hill Rd. False Bay is aptly named for the gooey flat exposed at low tide, stranding more than one mariner. When the tide is out, roll up your pants and walk through this different world, the sea floor. The bay is a marine research site, so take only pictures and leave footprints.
Lastly, visiting Limekiln Point State Park, the only whale watch park in the US, is a great location to sit on the rocky shore of Haro Strait and look for the Southern Resident Orcas. There is a visitor center, restrooms, trails, a lighthouse, and an interpretive center/cafe. A Discover Pass is required for parking and is available for purchase there.
Return for your evening at Lakedale Resort. If one full day on San Juan Island is not enough, stay another! Be careful; more than one visitor stayed another day and remained a lifetime.
Days 3 & 4: Orcas Island
Orcas Island is the largest of the San Juans, with the highest point in the archipelago. Some say it looks like two saddlebags hugging the fjord-like East Sound. Besides the main town of Eastsound, there are several other small communities or hamlets: Orcas Landing, Olga, West Sound, Doe Bay, and Deer Harbor. Orcas was not named for the whale but to honor Juan Vicente de Güemes Padilla Horcasitas y Aguayo, 2nd Count of Revillagigedo, the Mexican viceroy that sent the first Spanish explorer to the region. That is a mouthful - imagine his mother yelling at him to pick up his clothes!
To get to Orcas, drive into Friday Harbor and get your van in line for the ferry to Orcas Island. Remember, travel heading through the other islands and on to Anacortes is included in the fare you paid coming to San Juan Island, so drive up to a ferry worker and get assigned a line to wait in. During the summer months, it will be busy, and the most leisurely approach is to get in line early and walk around Friday Harbor. If you haven’t yet done so, visit the Whale Museum. Learn about natural whale history, and get brought up to the minute on the Southern Resident orcas fighting extinction and how you can help them. For delicious espresso, baked goods, and fresh bagels, stop by Cafe Demeter. Be back at your van at least 20 minutes before loading.
Your ferry to Orcas Island sails up San Juan Channel between San Juan and Shaw Islands. You go through the Wasp Islands when you turn hard to starboard (to the right for you landlubbers). Yellow, McConnell, Crane, and Bell are on the port side (left), and Cliff and Shaw will be on the starboard side. Depending on the ferry schedule and which island it stops at first, your trip will take between 40 and 90 minutes.
You arrive at Orcas Landing on the island's south end, where a small grocery store, a few shops, and a hotel are found. Coming off the ferry, turn left onto Orcas Rd and drive up to Eastsound, the community and commercial center of the island. If you want to be different and like quiet roads, turn right off the ferry and drive the peaceful and scenic Killebrew Lake Rd. There is an understated pullout/sandy beach at Killebrew Lake. Continue to Dolphin Bay Road, which joins Orcas Road and takes you into Eastsound.
The best way to explore Eastsound is to park and walk around town. Hip shops, pubs, supermarkets, and the Orcas Food Co-op exist. Darvill’s Books carries many titles, many by island authors. They also serve Olympia coffee roaster Batdorf and Bronson’s beans and make delicious espresso drinks. Have a cup and browse the books. Orcas Center, the community theater, produces a surprising range of cultural performances and offerings throughout the year.
If you want dinner, check out Mijitas Mexican Kitchen, an excellent family-run restaurant. For Orcas’ finest dining, head to The Inn at Ship Bay, where chef Geddes Martin creates exquisite meals from local and organic ingredients. If the lighter fare and fresh beer are more your style, Island Hoppin’ Brewery is about a mile from Eastsound by the airport.
Stay overnight at Doe Bay, Mt. Baker Farm, or West Beach Resort.
Doe Bay has eight drive-in campsites ranging in price from $43-$75. The overnight fee includes using the guest kitchen, showers, sauna, and hot tubs. There is a cafe and a small general store. Honoring the bohemian origins of Doe Bay, the store has more herbal tea varieties than a Celestial Seasonings catalog, with multiple flavors of kombucha, IPAs, and NW wines.
Mt. Baker Farm is an eclectic mix of campsites and activities. They have over 60 van-friendly sites in their vast fields and forests and are an easy mile walk from the center of Eastsound. There is a small camp store, kids petting zoo, professionally designed 9-basket disc golf course, and a working train! The original owner was a railroad enthusiast and built 2 miles of railroad on the property, along with two stations. The main one is a replica of California’s Lake Elsinore station. Rides are offered throughout the day, and you can even flag the train down for a lift around the property.
West Beach Resort has multiple van sites, a long beach with spectacular views, and a hot tub. There is a small general store with necessities like ice cream and beer. Kayak, canoe, and SUP rentals are available. Clamming, crabbing, and fishing are great, and you can arrange for a whale watch boat to pick you up at their dock.
Day 4: Moran State Park and Artful Drive Around Orcas
Start the day early by exploring beautiful Moran State Park. There is something here for everyone, including swimming in either Cascade or Mountain Lakes, extensive hiking on 30 miles of trails, and a road up 2,407’ Mt. Constitution, the archipelago’s highest point.
From the summit lookout tower, take in the territorial views sweeping from the City of Vancouver, BC, south into the North Cascades punctuated by the volcanos Mt. Baker, Glacier Peak, and Mt Rainier. You get a bird’s eye view of Bellingham beyond the more remote San Juan Islands of Sucia, Matia, Barnes, Clark, Cyprus, and Blakely. For the hardy, walk to the top or from the top of Mt. Constitution. Shorter, less strenuous walks go around Mountain and Cascade Lakes. Walk counter-clockwise around Mountain Lake for the best views of Mt. Constitution’s sheer east face. Extend your walk to the one-hundred-foot-high Cascade Falls.
For those preferring a less vigorous visit, you can rent paddle boats at Cascade Lake and cruise around while looking for birds and wildlife.
After you have conquered Mt. Constitution, you can see the work of island artisans. Orcas Island Artworks and Gallery in Olga cooperates with 46 local artists. The artists run the gallery, so you will meet and have the chance to talk with them and discuss their work. Onsite Catkin Cafe serves breakfast and lunch from 9 am to 3 pm, Wednesday through Sunday. Save room for one of their amazing desserts!
Need to work off the tasty baked good you just put away but don’t want to climb another mountain? Less than 1/10 mile past the cafe and gallery is Coho Preserve. Walk or drive east on Point Lawrence Rd and find a small parking area and trailhead. Coho Preserve was acquired by the San Juan County Landbank in 2016 and preserved the islands’ last wild salmon and native cutthroat runs. The loop trail is only 3/4 mile but leads you through pristine riparian habitat beside the cascading creek. Please observe spawning coho, chum salmon, or native cutthroat from a respectful distance.
Obstruction Pass State Park is a short distance away and has over a mile of shoreline. There are several secluded walk-in picnic sites with access to the saltwater. There is a machine to purchase Discover passes if you need them.
Head to East Sound and have a treat! Island Thyme Shop and Crow Valley Gallery is located in Eastsound and makes botanical body care products, many crafted solely from plants grown on Orcas. Island potters and artists show their work in the gallery.
Want to get on the water? The best way to explore the Salish Sea is by sea kayak. Shearwater Adventures has been guiding tours longer than anyone else on Orcas Island. Their office is downtown, and they offer tours from four locations around the island. If you choose Deer Harbor, you will have an excuse to drive over winding roads to this charming little harbor on the SW side of Orcas. Your paddle takes you towards the Wasp Islands through open water and secret coves. When you return, you can grab a snack or meal at Deer Harbor Marina or Deer Harbor Inn.
Additional Activities on Orcas
Orcas Pottery is in an old-growth cedar forest overlooking President’s Channel and Waldron Island. They claim to be the oldest pottery studio gallery in the USA. They acquired their first gallery building by bartering four dinner plates and bowls and hauling them to their current home. The range of pottery is stunning; the designs and glazes are magical. They will ship to your home, so you don’t have to fill your van with fragile purchases. While there, they walk around their garden and climb into the treehouse.
Sea Doc Society in West Sound is a base for Salish Sea marine wildlife, ecosystem science, and education. Explore their multi-species approach to monitoring and ensuring the health of the Salish Sea.
Turtleback Mountain Preserve is one of the crown jewels of land preservation in the San Juan Islands. It was purchased in 2006 for $18.5 million by the San Juan County Landbank's combined fundraising efforts and the San Juan Preservation Trust. There are over 8.7 miles of hiking trails through old-growth forests, Garry oak savannah, and wildflower meadows. There are two trailheads, one on the south and one on the north end. Mountain biking is allowed from the North Trailhead on even days only.
Day 5: Back to Seattle!
Catch a ferry to Anacortes and find your way back to Peace Vans.